Kanyakumari: the sea within
By Sujoy Dhar |
It was complete darkness but for a weak moon that had very thinly illumined the night sky. Far away across the sea channel like an apparition could be seen a giant frame of a statue on a rock. It is of Saint Thiruvalluvar, the author who penned 'Thirukkural', a treatise in Tamil on the Indian way of life.
The foamy sea waves were breaking down with some primal fury against the rocky base of the temple of Kanya Kumari, the deity of virgin goddess who "protects the Indian shores". The sound of the waves lashing against the temple was fearsome, accentuated by the eeriness of the night. I heard the angry growls of the sea, sitting motionless for almost an hour on the guard wall of the temple, trying to fathom what Swami Vivekananda had felt when he first reached Kanyakumari in 1892. I felt blessed to be there that night on the southern tip of India. Time had stood still for me on that Kanyakumari night as gusty sea wind swept my consciousness.
Kanyakumari is a feeling to be learnt. It is more of spiritualism than piety. It is also about a panoramic landscape.
Kanyakumari is located in Tamilnadu state at the southern most tip of the Indian Peninsula where the Arabian Sea, the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengalmeet. The place is famous for its spectacular sunrises and sunsets. The famous visit of Swami Vivekananda more than 110 years ago had transformed Kanyakumari into a place of great spiritual ferment for visitors.
The imposing hills at a distance, the vast swathes of coconut trees and the greenish blue sea coast, closely interwoven with temples and churches, make 'Kanyakumari' a coveted destination for all kinds of tourists.
But what makes it so special is obviously the footprints of Swami Vivekananda. Vivekananda Memorial is about 500 metres away from mainland. Built in 1970, this memorial stands on one of two rocks separated by about 70 metres. This memorial is dedicated to the greatest social reformer who had meditated on the rock where the beautiful structure stands today. A meditation hall is also attached with the memorial. The design of the mandapa incorporates different styles of temple architecture from all over India. It houses a statue of Vivekananda. The divine foot print 'Pada Parai' of Devi Kanya Kumari is also seen here on the rock in a temple. A ferry ride of five minutes through a choppy strait takes you to the rock where you can unwind even for a whole day as strong wind sweeps you away from the earthly world of power and pelf. On the other rock adjacent is the giant statue of Thiruvalluvar. The sculpture, resembling Rio de Janeiro's giant Christ the Redeemer statue, stands 133 feet tall amid the dancing blue waves like a guardian angel. It creates a lasting impression as it rises high over the rock.
So as I lazed on the sprawling Vivekanand rock in a sunny morning it was a sense of déjà vu. The childhood stories of Vivekananda heard from the parents for once found imageries. As an itinerant monk travelling all over India, Swami Vivekananda reached Kanyakumari in December 1892. He had traversed the vast land of India upon the soles of his feet.
According to writers and historians, Swamiji had suffered from hunger, from thirst in his travels and when he arrived at Kanyakumari, he was exhausted. Having no money to pay for a boat to take him to the end of his pilgrimage, he flung himself into the sea, and swam across the shark-infested strait and reached the top of a mid-sea rock on 25 December, Christmas day, in 1892. He spent three days there, returning to the shore only on 28th December 1892.
"At last his task was at an end, and then, looking back from a mountain he embraced the whole of the Indiahe had just traversed, and the world of thought that had beset him during his wanderings. For more than two years earlier he had lived in a seething cauldron, consumed with a fever ; he had carried a soul on fire, he was a storm and hurricane," writes an author on Vivekananda's famous tryst with Kanyakumari. On this sea rock, Vivekananda had meditated not on God but on Mother India who was the incarnate of the goddess, the divine Durga. Swamiji felt in his heart of hearts that India would rise only through a renewal and restoration of that highest spiritual consciousness which had made her, throughout her history, the cradle of religions and cultures. He then, sitting at the last bit of rock in the Indian ocean, took the momentous decision to go to the West to give shape to his life's mission of spreading India's religion and culture throughout the world.
The great spiritual experience of Vivekananda rock apart, we can take a note of the must sees in Kanyakumari. The Kanyakumari Temple, where I felt so divine on that night, is one of the major tourist attractions in south India. The temple is dedicated to Parvati as Devi Kanya, the Virgin Goddess who did penance to obtain the hand of Lord Shiva. The deity, Devi Kanyakumari is' the protector of India's shores' has an exceptionally brilliant diamond on her nose ring which is supposed to shine out to sea. Non-Hindus are not allowed in the temple premise and men have to go inside the mystic interior bare torsoed.
In evening as you take a stroll, never miss to walk into the Gandhi Mandapam. The Gandhi Mandapam is located very close to the Kumari Amman Temple. This is the place where the urn containing the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi was kept for public view before a portion of its contents was immersed in the three seas. It resembles an Oriyan temple and was designed so that on Gandhiji's birthday (2nd October), the sun's rays fall on the place where his ashes were kept.
About 13 km away is Suchindram Temple. It is a temple dedicated to a deity who is the representation of the combined forces of Siva, Vishnu and Brahma. It is one of the few temples in the country where the trinities are worshipped. The temple has a beautiful gopuram, musical pillars and an excellent statue of the Hanuman, apart from a valuable collection of art from different periods.
In the evening at Kanyakumari, tourist flock to the view tower for a breathtaking view of Kanyakumari. Climb up the tower and watch the magnificent sunset. There is a telescope to offer you more excitement.
However, a walk along the shore or a short car ride to see the fishermen's community at another sunset point a little further magnifies the joy of a beautiful sunset sitting on a sea rock and watching the brave riders to the sea sailing off.
Never miss on a Kanyakumari trip a visit to the famous Vattakottai Fort (or 'Circular Fort'). It is a short journey. The sea coast rimmed by a shore overgrown with coconut trees is a visual treat from the fort that lingers long after you have left. I felt quite lost in the blue vastness of the sea viewed from the fort. Vattakottai fort looks minimalistic otherwise. It was built in the 18th century as a coastal defence-fortification and barracks in the erstwhile Travancore kingdom. Constructed under the supervision of Captain Eustachius De Lannoy, an ex-Dutch naval officer who became commander of the Travancore army in the 18th century, after he earned the trust of the Travancore King Marthanda Varma, the fort extends to the sea. While sea and swathes of coconut trees beckons on one side of the fort, the Western Ghats hills rise on another side. On way you might find coconut kernel being dried by the village women in large number.
The day I left Kanyakumari, it was early dawn. Though a haze I could see only the giant statue of Saint Thiruvalluvar on the distant horizon standing tall like a royal guard. I realised once again Kanyakumari is a spiritual journey to be felt.
FACT SHEET:
Best Buys : Shell craft items, Local handloom and handicraft items.
Best Hangouts : The Kanyakumari Beach
Best Activity : Stroll along the beach side.
Nearby Tourist Destinations : Trivandrum (86 km), Tirunelvelli (91 km), Rameshwaram (300 km), Madurai (242 km).
When to Visit : September to May
Where to stay: Hotels of all budgets available. But for budget traveller always the first preference should be Hotel Tamilnadu, run by the state government.
Getting There
Air : The nearest airport is at Trivandrum (80 km). It is directly connected with Bangalore, Mumbai, Cochin, Delhi, Goa, and Chennai by regular flights.
Rail : Daily train connects all important Indian cities.
Road : Kanyakumari is connected by road to all the major cities and towns of the neighbouring states.
Website: www.tamilnadutourism.org |
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